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Colour it in

Hi all,this is my second painting tutorial colour it in. What I’m painting this time will be from Scarab Miniatures there Projekt X range a Soldat( basically a zombie Nazi in power armour). This will be very similar to the previous colour it in I’ve done. I started off with Vallejo surface primer black through the air brush.

 For the base colour I made a mix of VMC ger. dark green 1:1 VMC black. I painted this mix mostly on the plate armour leaving some of the areas like trim ,elbow and joints still black. Done about 3 layers.

Next I done a heavy wash shade of GW nuln oil.

The next layer I applied was a straight VMC ger. dark green. I applied this all over the plate armour again but leaving the recesses of the previous shade a loan. Done about 4 layers.

Next I’ll start to highlight the armour using a mix of VMC ger. dark green 1:1 AP desert yellow. I done a lots of thin layers starting with the paint at the top of the armour using a second moist brush dragging it down ( blending it out).

Adding more of AP desert yellow to mix so it’s 2:1 VMC ger. dark green. Doing the same process again but not dragging the moist brush as far.

Adding more to the mix so it will be AP desert yellow 3:1 VMC ger. black green. I’ll paint all the edges of the green armour.


Next I made a glaze to try and soften and bring the colours transitions all together. Using a mix of Vallejo glaze medium 1:1 VMC ger. dark green also adding in 4 drops of water. I applied 3 very thin layers all over.

Now that all the green is finished I will paint all the other areas with VMC black.

Next I start highlighting all the black areas, leaving the helmet alone and the creases in the arms and behind the legs. The mix is VMC black 1:1 VMC german grey. Done in 3 layers.

The next highlight will be similar to what I did with the green using a second brush. Starting from the high points at dragging it down using straight VMC german grey. It is kinda hard to see in the picture but hopefully you can.

So I will now paint all the edges of the black I’ll using VMC grey green. Done with 2 layers.

Next I will paint a helmet using VMC grey green done with 2 layers.

Then I applied a shade 1 thin layer of GW nuln oil.

Once the shade is dry I reapply VMC grey green done with 2 layers leaving the recess of the shadow showing. Sorry that was meant to be a picture but I forgot to take it. For the next Final highlight on the helmet I used a mix of VMC grey green 2:1 VMC sky grey. When applying the paint I use the second moist brush again to drag it out.

I wanted the armour to look a little different rather than just green I added some brown tiger stripes in random parts of the armour. Using straight VGC charred brown done in 4 layers.

 Next I highlight the tiger stripes using a mix of VGC charred brown 2:1 VGC beasty brown. I’m also trying to leave some of the previous colour showing.

For the final highlight used a straight VGC beasty brown painting it more in the centre of the tiger stripes. Done with 2 layers.

Now we’re getting close to the end peeps going to do a little bit of basic battle damage. Using straight VMC black all paint random little marks on the armour.

Paint all the random black chips and also grills on the back and front and a plug with GW leadbelcher done with 2 layers.

Then I did a shade wash on the grills and plug using GW agrax earth shade.

Now for the finishing part of the miniature I will be painting energy bar on the gun is lenses on his mask and a button on the back pack. I used GW mephiston red done 2 layers.

I then applied a mixed shade wash of VGI black 2:1 VGI red done with 2 layers.

I then reapplied GW mephiston red but this time I did a lot of thin coats so the red was watered down quite a bit.

For the highlight I did a very similar using a very thin down GW wild rider red. After I painted very high points of the highlight using GW fire dragon bright. Done with 2 layers.

So the miniature is done I will not be varnishing it as I do not intend gaming with it just yet. Just need to do the base. For this I used Deco Art burnt umber as the base colour. Then I did a heavy dry brush of cinnamon brown followed by a heavy Brow brush of golden brown to finish off I used AP strong tone. Also adding some flock and leaves.

When painting I do add water or thinning medium to the paints but this varies between brands and age of paint. Here is the range of paints I used:

VMC Vallejo model color
VGC Vallejo game color
VGI Vallejo game ink
GW Citadel paints
AP Army painter

Hope you enjoyed this painting tutorial many thanks dcminiaturespainting.


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Colour it in

Hi all, colour it in is reference for future projects I’ll be working on. It’s also a painting tutorial at the same time for those who might be interested. I have a terrible memory so using the blog will help. So this project I’m working on is commission work for a friend I’m painting his Khador Butcher by privateer press from WarMachines.

I started off with surface primer black Vallejo through my airbrush I did 2 coats.

I decided to start with the head I feel that doing head (face) first makes the model looks more alive making  me wanting to finish the model quicker. I did the eyes and teeth with VMC ivory then the pupils with VMC black. Any mistakes just touch up or restart again.

The base colour for the face was a mix of FP3 khardic flesh with a spot of FP3 khador red base. This took about 4 layers.

For the shade I used GW reikland fleshshade 2 thin layers.

Then I applied the first highlights of FP3 khardic flesh to all the raised areas on the face and head. This took about 3 layers.

 The final highlight I did on the skin was a mixture of FP3 khardic flesh 1:1 FP3 midlund flesh. I painted this mix on the most highest parts and raised areas of the head and face cheekbones, nose  and around the ears plus top of the head. Took about 4 layers.

 Now to the big red armour the colour used for this was FP3 khador red base, I painted on all the plate armour that can be seen. This was a very good strong red and only took 2 layers.

Next I went over the red armour with a wash for the shade I did a mix of VGI black 1:2 VGI red also adding a few drops water so it wasn’t so strong in tone. I did 2 layers.

I then reapplied the FP3 khador red base on armour but leaving the recesses so you can see the previous shading. It took about 4 layers.

For the final highlight on the armour I did a mix of FP3 khador red base 2:1 FP3 khador red highlight. I applied to the edge of the armour this took about 3 layers.

Now the red is finished go round model touch up any mistakes with some black. Going to paint the metallics starting with the plates at the bottom of his coat. The base colour is a mixture of 3 colours VMC german grey 1: VGC tinny tin 1: VGC gunmetal metal 1: . It took 2 layers.

For the shade I used a heavy wash of GW seraphim sepia just 1 layer.

Once dried I reapplied the base colour doing dry brushing. Lightly dry brushing about 4 layers.

Now I paint the axe, pipes and spikes using a mix of VMC german grey 1:1 VGC chainmail sliver. I did about 2 layers.

I added 2 more drops of VGC chainmail sliver so the mix 1:3. I painted all the silver areas leaving the darker shade in the recesses. Talk about 3 layers.

For the final highlights on the silver I did a pure VGC chainmail sliver. Just painting the edges was done in about 3 layers.

Time to do the leftover metal work the bronze areas using a mix of VGC parasite brown 1:1 VGC bright bronze. Took about 3 layers.

Next I shaded with GW agrax earthshade done with 2 layers.

I applied a pure VGC bright bronze to the raised parts leaving the recesses done with 2 layers.

Now for the final highlight on all the bronze I used FP3 radiant platinum on all the edges.

Now all the metallic are done it’s time to paint black trim and his jacket. I used a mix of VMC black 1:1 VMC german grey done with 2 layers.

I then added 1 more drop of VMC german grey to the previous mix then applied 2 layers to the raised areas.

For the final highlight added a drop of VMC grey green. So mix is VMC german grey 2: VMC black 1: VMC grey green 1: I painted all the edges of the coat and the black trim on the armour done with 2 layers.

So we’re onto painting the boots, belts and straps using a base colour of VGC beasty brown. Done with 3 layers.

 For the shading I did 2 layers of heavy wash using GW agrax earthshade.

I then highlighted all the raised areas with VGC beasty brown done 3 layers.

For the final highlight on all the edging of the leather I used a mix of VGC beasty brown 1:1 VGC leather brown. Done with 4 layers.

Now for the butchers trousers I did a base colour of VGC dark fleshtone. Done with the 3 layers.

For the shade I need a mix of GW nuln oil 1:1 GW agrax earthshade. I applied 4 light layers to all the recesses.

 I reapplied the base colour VGC dark fleshtone to all the raised areas done 3 layers.

For the final highlight on the trousers I made a mix of VGC dark fleshtone 1:1 VGC beasty brown done with 4 layers.

Now for the last part of the Butcher to be painted is the fur using a base colour of VGC cold grey. Done 2 layers.

For the highlight areas are used VGC stonewall grey. Done with 2 layers  I painted the raised areas using the side of the brush.

For the final highlight on the fur I painted the highest areas with VMC offwhite done in 3 layers.

Right so now the miniature main paint job is done. I painted the base with deco arts cinnamon brown then I dry brushed with their golden brown. Once it was dried I gave it a heavy wash of GW agrax earthshade then I painted the rim of the base with GW Abaddon black.

 (Warning varnishing can change the colour of your miniatures paint job) So the miniature now needs to be protected so I will give it a couple of coats of gloss varnish through my airbrush.

 You want to leave it a good 4 to 24 hours before applying the matt varnish and that will be with an airbrush again.

 For the finishing touches I put on snow flock, flour and some grass and thats the miniature done to a nice gaming tabletop standard.

When painting I do add water or thinning medium to all my paints when painting the amount you have is different with each Brand and how old it is. Paint ranges that are used:

VGC  Vallejo game colour
VMC Vallejo model colour
GW Citadel paints
FP3 formula P3

Hope you liked it many thanks dcminiaturepainting.


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3rd part to painting an old empire halberdler by games workshop

Hi all, today I’ll show you how to paint the eyes and skin plus lips on this miniature. I will start with the eyes. Always remember that when mixing paints it’s a good idea to add a little water as this gives the paint a smoother consistancy when applying to the model.
1st, I recoated the face with grey undercoat where I made mistakes with the metalics. The paints I used next for the eyes were vallejo Ivory and dark prusia blue.
2nd, When painting eyes you’ll need to keep your hands steady so rest your wrist on a table. Using a fine detail brush paint the ivory in to the eye sockets. 1 or 2 coats should be fine. The next part can be a pain to dot the eyes. Using the same brush get dark prusia blue and start from the top of the eyelid and go down slow and controled and keep close to the nose. If you’re not happy where the dot went just reapply the ivory and try agian.
So with the eyes done now on to the skin. The paints I used for this are vallejo fleston shade, medium flestone, flat flesh and basic skintone.
3rd, Using a basecoat brush I did 3 coats of medium fleshtone try to be careful not to get the eyes.
4th, I applied 2 coats of fleshtone shade to all the skin be very careful not to get the areas that have been painted already.
5th, Need to make a highlight colour, mix medium fleshtone and flat flesh 1/1 add a little water. Use a fine detail brush to paint the raised areas leaving the shaded recesses alone.
6th, final highlight. Use basic skintone paint the edges on the face where the light is most likey to hit like the cheekbones, nose and the tip of the chin. You may want to use a very fine brush for this.
7th, The last part of the face to do now is the lips. Paints used in this were foundry brick red (c) and vallejo medium flehtone mixed 1/1. 1 coat of this mix applied to the bottom lip carefully should do it.
So all eyes and skin are done now, hope it’s helped and you’ve enjoyed this. I’ll be doing leather and wood next.
Thanks dcminiaturespainting

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2nd Part to painting an old empire halberdier by games workshop

Hi all, here is the 2nd part in which I’ll paint the gold on the armour.
Here is the list of paints I used shining gold, sepia shade wash, burnshed gold & radiant platinum.
1st paint armour rims in shining gold add abit of water so when applied it’s smooth (this will take up to 3-4 coats with all layers).
2nd give the shining gold a wash with sepia shade be very careful not to go over the grey metal.
3rd when the wash has dried put on the burnished gold. Use a small brush for this, paint the high parts which are caught by the light.
4th the final highlight is using radiant platinum. This in my opinion is very good for highligthing gold, so you want to hit the very high edges with the paint.
So with all the metals done now I will do the eyes and skin next. I hope you enjoyed this so far and will post again soon.
Thanks dcminiaturespainting

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Painting an Old Empire Halberdier by gamesworkshop

Hi all ,this my 1st post and tutorial for painting to a nice tabletop standard. So lets begin, first clean off all model lines after that give it a wash with some soapy water and an old toothbrush and let it dry (you could use a hairdryer).SAMSUNG
Next step is to give your mini an undercoat. Use spray or brush on its up to you. I’ve used coat d’arms Grey primer. I added a little water and gave it 2 coats.
We’re going to do the base coats for the metals next, you will need black (for the grey metal) & orange brown (for the gold metal) Add some
water so when you apply to mini it goes on smooth, put 2-3 coats.
Time to put the matalics on. I used boltgun metal and badab black wash, mithril sliver.
1st matalic used was boltgun metal with a bit of black.
2nd was a wash of badab black so it went in to the recesses.
3rd just using plan boltgun metal paint on the raised areas don’t go in to the recesses.
4th using mithril silver with a small amout of boltgun metal in the mix,
paint the very high edges of the plates were the light would hit it from above.
Well that’s it for now will do the gold soon hope it helps and you enjoyed it.
Thanks dcminiaturespainting


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