Colour it in

Hi all, colour it in is reference for future projects I’ll be working on. It’s also a painting tutorial at the same time for those who might be interested. I have a terrible memory so using the blog will help. So this project I’m working on is commission work for a friend I’m painting his Khador Butcher by privateer press from WarMachines.

I started off with surface primer black Vallejo through my airbrush I did 2 coats.

I decided to start with the head I feel that doing head (face) first makes the model looks more alive making  me wanting to finish the model quicker. I did the eyes and teeth with VMC ivory then the pupils with VMC black. Any mistakes just touch up or restart again.

The base colour for the face was a mix of FP3 khardic flesh with a spot of FP3 khador red base. This took about 4 layers.

For the shade I used GW reikland fleshshade 2 thin layers.

Then I applied the first highlights of FP3 khardic flesh to all the raised areas on the face and head. This took about 3 layers.

 The final highlight I did on the skin was a mixture of FP3 khardic flesh 1:1 FP3 midlund flesh. I painted this mix on the most highest parts and raised areas of the head and face cheekbones, nose  and around the ears plus top of the head. Took about 4 layers.

 Now to the big red armour the colour used for this was FP3 khador red base, I painted on all the plate armour that can be seen. This was a very good strong red and only took 2 layers.

Next I went over the red armour with a wash for the shade I did a mix of VGI black 1:2 VGI red also adding a few drops water so it wasn’t so strong in tone. I did 2 layers.

I then reapplied the FP3 khador red base on armour but leaving the recesses so you can see the previous shading. It took about 4 layers.

For the final highlight on the armour I did a mix of FP3 khador red base 2:1 FP3 khador red highlight. I applied to the edge of the armour this took about 3 layers.

Now the red is finished go round model touch up any mistakes with some black. Going to paint the metallics starting with the plates at the bottom of his coat. The base colour is a mixture of 3 colours VMC german grey 1: VGC tinny tin 1: VGC gunmetal metal 1: . It took 2 layers.

For the shade I used a heavy wash of GW seraphim sepia just 1 layer.

Once dried I reapplied the base colour doing dry brushing. Lightly dry brushing about 4 layers.

Now I paint the axe, pipes and spikes using a mix of VMC german grey 1:1 VGC chainmail sliver. I did about 2 layers.

I added 2 more drops of VGC chainmail sliver so the mix 1:3. I painted all the silver areas leaving the darker shade in the recesses. Talk about 3 layers.

For the final highlights on the silver I did a pure VGC chainmail sliver. Just painting the edges was done in about 3 layers.

Time to do the leftover metal work the bronze areas using a mix of VGC parasite brown 1:1 VGC bright bronze. Took about 3 layers.

Next I shaded with GW agrax earthshade done with 2 layers.

I applied a pure VGC bright bronze to the raised parts leaving the recesses done with 2 layers.

Now for the final highlight on all the bronze I used FP3 radiant platinum on all the edges.

Now all the metallic are done it’s time to paint black trim and his jacket. I used a mix of VMC black 1:1 VMC german grey done with 2 layers.

I then added 1 more drop of VMC german grey to the previous mix then applied 2 layers to the raised areas.

For the final highlight added a drop of VMC grey green. So mix is VMC german grey 2: VMC black 1: VMC grey green 1: I painted all the edges of the coat and the black trim on the armour done with 2 layers.

So we’re onto painting the boots, belts and straps using a base colour of VGC beasty brown. Done with 3 layers.

 For the shading I did 2 layers of heavy wash using GW agrax earthshade.

I then highlighted all the raised areas with VGC beasty brown done 3 layers.

For the final highlight on all the edging of the leather I used a mix of VGC beasty brown 1:1 VGC leather brown. Done with 4 layers.

Now for the butchers trousers I did a base colour of VGC dark fleshtone. Done with the 3 layers.

For the shade I need a mix of GW nuln oil 1:1 GW agrax earthshade. I applied 4 light layers to all the recesses.

 I reapplied the base colour VGC dark fleshtone to all the raised areas done 3 layers.

For the final highlight on the trousers I made a mix of VGC dark fleshtone 1:1 VGC beasty brown done with 4 layers.

Now for the last part of the Butcher to be painted is the fur using a base colour of VGC cold grey. Done 2 layers.

For the highlight areas are used VGC stonewall grey. Done with 2 layers  I painted the raised areas using the side of the brush.

For the final highlight on the fur I painted the highest areas with VMC offwhite done in 3 layers.

Right so now the miniature main paint job is done. I painted the base with deco arts cinnamon brown then I dry brushed with their golden brown. Once it was dried I gave it a heavy wash of GW agrax earthshade then I painted the rim of the base with GW Abaddon black.

 (Warning varnishing can change the colour of your miniatures paint job) So the miniature now needs to be protected so I will give it a couple of coats of gloss varnish through my airbrush.

 You want to leave it a good 4 to 24 hours before applying the matt varnish and that will be with an airbrush again.

 For the finishing touches I put on snow flock, flour and some grass and thats the miniature done to a nice gaming tabletop standard.

When painting I do add water or thinning medium to all my paints when painting the amount you have is different with each Brand and how old it is. Paint ranges that are used:

VGC  Vallejo game colour
VMC Vallejo model colour
GW Citadel paints
FP3 formula P3

Hope you liked it many thanks dcminiaturepainting.



Filed under Colour it in painting tutorial

8 responses to “Colour it in

  1. Splendid painting! I really like how you’ve painted the red armour, it looks rich and layered well. I might follow your painting guide for my Word Bearers models, as they need a good paint job.

    I could never paint proper eyes on human form models, as it’s tricky getting it accurate on the model without it looking like it’s got uneven eyes. However, I never knew you could paint the eyes first on black undercoat, so I’ve learnt something new today from your post.

    Great post, keep up the good work! 🙂

  2. Great work Dave and a useful article

  3. Great tutorial Dave, thanks

  4. Excellent tutorial. Very clear and easy to follow. The miniature looks very good and the way you highlight your reds is very welcome, as I have often the problem that the reds tend to go too far into orange.

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